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Glossary of Needlework TermsMany definitions adapted from Mary Thomas's Dictionary of Embroidery Stitches I have given here short definitions of the stitches and embroidery forms that I most often use. They are listed in alphabetical order, and you can use the anchors at the end of this section to skip down the list. The "smallest size" note in some of the entries refers to how many stitching units the stitch takes in counted thread work. I have tried to make this complete in itself, catching all of the names and variations of the stitches and such, but I have probably made mistakes. If so I’d LOVE to hear from you, so I can fix them! Please! In order to save SOME space, I have included the variations of words under the main heading for the root word, even though they are still marked in bold text. For instance, where you see the word slubbiness, you need to look up slubs. This is the glossary from the "Survey of Needlework" class that I teach for the University of Ithra in the Society for Creative Anachronism. I need to mention, too, that many embroiderers differ about the names of stitches and techniques. I’ve tried to point out some of these variations below, and how they're used. Anytime anyone asks me about a new stitch or embroidery form, (see the link at the page bottom!) I add it to my list, but that doesn’t mean that they’re ALL here, any means! In addition there are many variations on each stitch that are tremendous fun to try. Please note that these are not how-to’s. I’m hoping to add those one day, but haven’t yet. I would suggest that if you’re truly interested in trying various forms of embroidery and lots of different stitches, that you get hold of a copy of one of the books listed at the bottom of this page, just above the links.
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Algerian eye stitch - (also known as Star Eyelet stitch) A drawn fabric stitch that is double-sided and sometimes used in Holbein work. It consists of 8 stitches all taken into the central hole. (Smallest size for counted work is 3x3.) Appliqué - A technique for fastening one material to another, using stitches or glue. In the broadest sense this is related to things such as sequins and wire, but this usually refers to fastening one fabric to another.
Bargello - A form of canvas work or needlepoint worked on the vertical/horizontal rather than the diagonal, mostly in geometric repetitive patterns. It is descended from Florentine work. Beaded stitch - (see Coral stitch) Berlin Woolwork - a form of canvas work popular in the 19th century, worked on a pre-painted canvas. Blackwork - Two forms of embroidery under the same heading. First is black-or-a-color-on-a-neutral-work. Many different stitches are used, the most common being double-running stitch, stem stitch, split stitch, various cross-stitches and darned fillings. The second type is more properly called Holbein work. (see below) Blanket stitch - Sometimes called buttonhole stitch. Used for edgings, particularly on turned over raw edges or on felt. It is worked in a larger scale and with thicker threads than buttonhole stitch. Blending filaments - A modern type of fiber for embroidery, usually a plastic of some kind. They come in many varieties, some metallic, some iridescent and some just shiny. Box stitch - A double-sided stitch used in many Slavic embroideries. As the name implies it makes tiny squares. Braid stitch - Several different stitches fall under this title. One type, sometimes called Cord stitch, joins two materials, edge to edge, with the needle held at right angles to the seam. The second is worked exactly the same but over two separated rows of back stitch, double-running stitch or stem stitch, not penetrating the ground fabric. This type is often found in metal thread embroideries. The third type is still worked the same way, but directly on and through a ground fabric, usually in Crewel work, or wherever a thick, wide line is needed. Brazilian embroidery - A relatively modern technique that descends from Stumpwork. Buttonhole stitch - An edging stitch used in cutwork and many drawn thread embroideries. Usually worked with small firm threads. It is worked the same as blanket stitch, but in a smaller scale. Buttonhole, Couched or Detached - see Couched Buttonhole work.
Canvas work - Any form of embroidery done in counted form on a heavy ground fabric. Needlepoint, Petit Point and Gros Point, Berlin Woolwork and Bargello usually fall under this heading, along with Florentine work and German Counted Thread work, but some groups count any Counted thread work under this heading. Chain stitch - This produces a line of looped stitches that can be pulled out with a single yank! This looks very much like backstitch on the back of the work. Lots of variations to try, with marvelous names like: Lazy Daisy, Tete de Boeuf, and Crested Chain. Chemise - an under garment. This usually refers to a light fabric, rectangular construction garment worn next to the skin under the corset. Often decorated in the 16th century with Holbein-work. Cloth weave - (aka Linen weave) The standard over 1, under 1 pattern that every craftsperson learns. Coif - an under-hat or house-hat shaped very like modern baby bonnets. Worn for warmth and/or to keep hair oils out of unwashable hats. Often decorated with Holbein-work in the 16th/17th centuries. Coral stitch (Coral knot stitch) - Sometimes called Beaded stitch, Snail Trail or Knotted outline stitch. This is stitched just like outline stitch, except that the needle is put back through the loop to make an overhand knot. Coral stitch, single or double - These stitches are not to be confused with the previous stitch. Another name for these is Feather Stitch. These stitches have this name because they branch like lacy coral, and are a warped version of buttonhole stitch. Corset - a stiffened undergarment for the upper body, usually worn by women. Intended to re-shape the figure, this also serves as a foundation to hang clothing on or pin to. In the 15th -17th centuries, these were usually of layers of canvas with reeds, bone or metal strips between. Replaced in the 20th century by bra & girdle. Cotton - This fabric has existed since ancient times, but was not commonly available until the invention of the Cotton gin, which made it so much easier to clean and card that it has become the most common natural fiber available today. It is the fiber that cushions the seeds in the seedpod or boll. It is fluffy and though short staple, is strong and longwearing when spun. Cotton/polyester - A modern fabric that is a mixture of Cotton and Polyester. You will often hear people say something like, "It's a 60/40." That means that the fiber content of the fabric is 60% Cotton and 40% Polyester. 60/40 and 30/70 are the most common. Couched work - A type of appliqué in which fibers or wire are fastened to the ground fabric with evenly spaced, almost invisible stitches. Sometimes these are done in regular patterns so that the work has a geometric appearance, such as in Opus Anglicanum. Couched buttonhole work - Popular in the late 1500’s and through the 1600's, this produces a knotted fabric that is detached from the ground fabric except at the edges. Modern Brazilian embroidery descends from this type of work and quite a bit of stumpwork was done with this technique. Counted Cross-stitch - A counted thread technique that uses one of the many variations of Cross-stitch to make blocks of color. In modern usage this mostly applies to making large pictures in multiple colors, but many ethnic embroideries and older embroideries use this as a monochrome technique (color on a neutral or vice versa). Counted work - All embroideries such as Holbein-work, Counted Cross-stitch, Hardanger and Canvas Work where the work is done on an evenly woven ground fabric and the threads counted to make each stitch even and regular in size. Crewel stitch - This is the same as Outline stitch or Stem stitch. It is so called because it is one of the primary stitches done in Crewel work. Also used in Jacobean embroidery. Crewel work - A type of Wool work that first became popular in the early 17th century in Jacobean England, therefore sometimes called Jacobean embroidery. Cross stitch - stitch - A stitch that makes small x’s all across the fabric. There are many variations on this stitch, the most common pre-1600 being, long-armed cross stitch and two-sided Italian, as well as Montenegrin. This is sometimes called Sampler stitch since so many 18-20th century samplers were worked mostly in this stitch. Cross stitch - technique - (see counted cross stitch) Also in modern usage, using the stitch on pre-printed textiles. Cut work - An embroidery usually done in thread the same color as the fine ground fabric. Stitches such as buttonhole are used to make stabilized areas of fabric that can be cut out between in fancy patterns. Modern eyelet fabric is an imitation of this work. This is also called Richelieu or Swiss embroidery.
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M © 1995 by Mary Anne Bartlett | ||||
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